If you already have a wooden floor
which has seen better days or you just want to restore its natural
beauty then at pure wood floors we have the expertise to help. Our
renovation team can restore all types of wood floor and can carry
out specialist repairs in even the worst of cases.
Finish or oil bring out the best in a wood floor. They can also
highlight marks and mistakes. Sometimes a problem only becomes
evident after the finish has been applied. After applying finish,
you can't just sand away an ugly mark in a small area and put a dab
of finish on top. The area of new finish will show up and be clearly
visible. Unfortunately, you may have to start the whole floor all
over again. On the next few pages, we show a few examples of what
can go wrong. They emphasize the importance of not only choosing the
right products but of using them in the right way.
905 403 0510
| Score
marks all over the floor |
| |
Sanding a wood floor is a gradual
step-by-step process. If you go straight from a coarse to a fine
sanding, for example, the result could look like the floor in
the photo. We recommend three steps or more as shown below. |
| 1. |
Coarse sanding. The purpose here
is to remove dirt, old finish and marks on the wood. The most
common practice is to start with grit 36 or 40. In exceptional
cases, with very uneven floors or pine floors coated in old
finish, you may decide to start with grit 24 or even grit 16. |
| 2. |
Medium sanding. Next we recommend
medium sanding with grit number 50 to 80, which will remove
traces of coarse sanding and starting marks. |
| 3. |
Fine sanding. The fine sanding is
usually done with grit 120. If you use solvent-based finishes,
you can use grit 100 for the final sanding and still obtain a
well-bodied surface. However, with a water-borne finish, the
final sanding should be done with grit 120 or finer. |
 |
After fine abrasion, deep
grooves remain if you miss out the medium sanding. To obtain a
good result, never jump from a coarse to a fine grit size.
|
Sanding and sealing
Hardwood flooring restoration contractors
serving Mississauga Oakville Toronto GTA Markham North York Hamilton
Etobicoke Brampton
| Long
scratches |
 |
Unless you are really observant,
it is easy to miss scratches on the surface of the wood after it
has been sanded. But once the finish or oil has been applied,
these scratches become painfully visible for everyone to see. |
The problem may be due to a poor
abrasive with pieces of grit that become easily detached. Even if
you vacuum clean the floor after each sanding step, you do not
always remove loose pieces of grit. Some of them remain in cracks in
the floor. The vibrations of the machine as it passes over can make
them bounce up again and they could fasten under the back wheels or
in the abrasive itself. The sharp pieces of grit can fall off the
surface of a poor quality abrasive. Our abrasives, on the other
hand, are made with high quality adhesives to hold the pieces of
grit in position and the risk of scratching.
Tip
After every change of grit number, vacuum clean the floor because
any coarse grit lying around can damage the finer abrasive that
follows.
905 403 0510
| Chatter
Marks |
 |
This is one of the most common
problems flooring contractors encounter and the cause of many
complaints from customers. The chatter marks only become visible
after the finish has been applied. |
There are several possible causes:
- Parts of the floor flex up and down
as a heavy sanding machine passes over.
- The abrasive is not tightly fitted
on the belt or drum sander.
- A badly balanced drum.
- A shuddering movement in the sanding
machine.
- The abrasive is not clamped in
properly around the drum and protrudes slightly.
- An overlapping seam on the belt rubs
against the floor.
Regarding the last of these causes, the
problem is easy to avoid by using a belt with a flat butt joint.
| The wood
is darker around the edges |
 |
Wood has its own natural color.
When a coat of finish or oil is applied, the color will change.
The way the floor is sanded influences the final shade. A coarse
abrasive makes the surface rougher. The finish or oil will tend
to penetrate deeper into the wood than when using a fine
abrasive and the color becomes darker. That's why it is
important to use the same grit size for the main areas of the
floor as for the edges and corners. |
Tip
Whatever grit you use for the main part of the floor, use the same
grit for the edge of the room and corners.
Floor Mississauga Oakville Burlington Toronto Scarborough
Milton Hamilton. Floor contractor.
| Nibs -
Abnormal grain-raising |
 |
If you sand properly and use grit
120 or finer for the final sanding, there usually aren't any
problems. However, if a coarser abrasive than grit 120 is used,
the finish tends to penetrate deeper into the pores of the wood
and gives more grain-raising. This is just one possible reason
why abnormal grain-raising occurs. Another is the amount of
finish you use. If too much finish is applied on the sanded
wood, more water comes into contact with the wood fibers and
more grain-raising occurs. Follow the recommendations given by
the manufacturer. |
If the first coat of finish hasn't been
given enough time to dry, this can also cause grain-raising. Suppose
abrading is performed as soon as possible after applying the finish
and then another coat of finish is applied immediately after. As the
underlying finish hasn't had time to dry properly, the new coat can
penetrate through to the wood and more grain-raising occurs.
Naturally, some species of wood are more vulnerable to grain-raising
than others. Pine is particularly problematic.
Tip
Remember that proper sanding is very important when abrading between
coats. Do not use a disc sander to abrade a water-borne finish as it
creates too much friction and can cause swirl marks.
| Swirl
marks in the finish |
 |
The commonest reason for these
scratches is if the contractor has started to abrade too soon.
At this stage, the surface of the finish is still slightly
sticky. Most of the water has evaporated but the coalescing
agents are still evaporating. These evaporate quite slowly. If
you start to abrade the floor now, there's a good chance that
the finish will fasten on the abrasive and scratch the surface. |
A good way to check if the finish is
dry enough to abrade is to touch the finish with the back of your
hand. If it feels cold on the surface, then drying is still in
progress and you will have to wait a little longer. If you open a
window to create better air circulation, you will speed up the
drying process.
Tip
Let the finish dry properly before abrading or sanding.
| Poor
adhesion |
 |
Most types of pre-finished wood
floors are suitable for over-coating but not all. With a few of
them, the finish just won't adhere no matter how carefully you
abrade. If you want to recoat a pre-finished wood floor, you
must check that the finish will actually adhere. Do a test on a
small area. If the test is successful, you should abrade the
floor very carefully preferably using the Scrad system. |
Alternatively, use a grit 150 abrasive
disc with a sanding machine to avoid marking the finish applied at
the factory. A new coat of finish will not adhere to a floor that
has been waxed or polished. In that case, you have no choice but to
sand back to the bare wood.
Tip
 |
A coin is a way to test the
adhesion of the finish to the underlying surface. If the finish
starts to flake off when rubbed, adhesion is poor. |
| Black
dots |
 |
These dots are due to metal
shavings or loose grit from the abrasive reacting with the
finish. That's why it is very important to vacuum clean
carefully. The dots are actually larger than a piece of grit and
are almost black in color no matter what was the color of the
original abrasive grit. The finish reacts with the metal present
in the grit to form a dark substance. This substance also
discolors part of the wood immediately around the piece of grit. |
If you look at the spot through a
magnifying glass, you may be able to see the piece of grit sticking
up in the middle surrounded by a ring of color.
floor sanding and sealing contractors
floor sanding contractors
floor restoration and sanding contractors see hardwood floors here.
Tip
To avoid black dots, vacuum clean carefully. Don't sharpen scrapers
in a room where you are going to apply finish. Check regularly that
the drum of your belt or drum sander is properly adjusted.
Back to floors from sanding to new installations in Mississauga
Oakville Burlington Toronto Scarborough Beeches
Hardwood floor restoration contractor
serving these areas below
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Ajax |
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Newcastle |
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Brampton |
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North York |
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Brantford |
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Oakville |
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Burlington |
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Pickering |
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Caledon |
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Port Hope |
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East York |
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Richmond hill |
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Etobicoke |
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Scarborough |
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Georgetown |
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Thornhill |
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Maple |
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Toronto |
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Markham |
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Unionville |
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Milton |
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Vaughan |
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Mississauga |
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Whitby |
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Newmarket |
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Woodbridge |
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Newcastle |
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